SUNRISE AT GALILEE TO NAZARETH

Sunrise, a time the world does not often partake of. The peaceful awakening of creation, arising slowly from its nightly slumber to a bright new day of living and breathing. When the light begins to bleed into the skyline, saturating the atmosphere. When birds sing their songs of worship and we emerge to a dawn of new beginning. I knew from the very moment I arrive in the Land, I wanted to experience at least one of these here. What better day than our last morning by the Sea of Galilee. I walked out and sat down on the ledge near my room, utterly filled with awe and wonder at how arresting the view was before me. I opened the Word and began to breath in life as the world stirred around me.

Not too long after I finished my reading, a boat came flying by, with fishermen waving at me with what appeared to be a large load of fish. It was one of those moments where everything around me stood still. I felt a smile creep onto my face imagining the disciples returning home with a haul of fish, ready to receive the blessing of the Lord and step into the calling of the day.

What did Jesus have in store for them today? What miracle could they expect to witness? Whose life would be altered forever – theirs or a desperate soul who needs rescue, maybe both? Who would they feed today? While these thoughts swirled through my mind, I felt a divine certainty in my heart that my eyes would see such rich goodness for myself. I was a little sad to be leaving the Sea but my heart full looking forward to the last two days remaining on this groundbreaking trip.

After a half an hour drive from Tiberias, we got a quick glimpse of Cana on our way into the Arab Capital of Israel, the hometown of Jesus, Nazareth. Our tour guide spontaneously recommended a quick stop to pick up what he dubbed the best baklava in all of Israel. It was like getting a glimpse into heaven stepping into that sweets shop. The window was lined with all kinds of different small pastries and I helped explain what each was to those with me. A little kid in a candy store could not compare to how I felt in that moment, enthralled by every sugar-filled item around.

Baklava holds a special place in my heart as I have joyfully labored over it for many hours for Christmas for the last 8 years. It was extra special to see it done to such array and grandeur, unlike I had seen or partaken of since I was 11 years old. While this might seem insignificant to most, something about that small bite into the syrupy, crunchy delight transported me into the rose-colored nostalgia of standing in the midst of a confectionery in the streets of Latakia, my hometown. I knew in that moment; something was special about Nazareth.

Our main stop in town was at the Nazareth Village, a living history museum of Jesus’ time, with period actors in costume, reenacting different types of characters. This quickly became one of my favorite spots in the whole Land. In this museum, we explored under the guidance of a local Arab Christian tour guide, who spoke the Bible off the pages with every word that came from his lips. To help set the scene, we saw a shepherd, a carpenter, a weaver, and a farmer. The backdrop featured a vineyard, a threshing floor, an olive press, a synagogue, a wine press, terraced fields, and a couple of sheep.

Olive Tree

He connected many scriptures to each stop along the way, but I was deeply touched by what he said at the olive press. He correlated the process of creating the olive oil to the Garden of Gethsemane, an olive grove with a press at its heart. When you make oil, you start by placing the olives into a round stone, where it gets crushed under an upright stone with a hole in the middle to create a pulp. Here’s when it gets interesting. Producers of oil than place the paste into baskets and stack them up under weights held up by a rod to release the oil.

It then gets pressed 3 times, each one lasting an hour. The first press, the holiest, purest oil, would be used in the Temple for cleansing and anointing. In that olive grove the night of His death, Jesus spent time praying over a period of 3 hours. In that first hour, He realized and willingly admit what He had to do. Pressed to the point of sweating blood, He knew He would fulfill the Law, the perfect sacrifice needed for sin, becoming that Temple offering burned for me and you.

The second pressing is used for cooking. It is not as pure as the first but it still has nutrition and substance to it. In that Garden, the second hour of prayer, Jesus admitted that the flesh was weak, though His Spirit was willing. He knew His body would have to be broken, as bread would be every time we partook of a meal or communion. He truly became the DAILY Bread of Life in this moment.

The 3rd and final pressing would be used in lighting lamps because this would be the dirtiest oil. It had functionality, but was filled with the remnant of the olives. Jesus tells us that He would be the Light of the World, a city set on a hill, as we ought to be too. In that Garden, knowing His light would fade out soon, He came to terms with the reality of His impending death and what He had to do. In that final hour, He poured out all that remained of His earthly will and became intertwined with His Heavenly Calling.

Tears streamed down my face, chills running up my back as I felt the Holy Spirit so profoundly in that moment. While my time in Gethsemane was short, I could picture this as reality unlike ever before. He did this all for me. For love. I honestly could never look at oil the same way ever again. The parallels were undeniable, the connection so profound.

He went on and pointed out that in the distance, you could see Mt. Carmel, our next stop of the day. Jesus speaks out of Isaiah saying, “The Spirit of the Lord is on me, because he has anointed me to proclaim good news to the poor. He has sent me to proclaim freedom for the prisoners and recovery of sight for the blind, to set the oppressed free, to proclaim the year of the Lord’s favor.” He said this would be fulfilled today and he was ridiculed for it. He talks about the miracles Elijah walked out in and how they got him killed, because a prophet was not welcome in their own home. This preaching in the synagogue nearly got him stone out of town because they were very aware of the miracles of Elijah and to them it sounded like an insult for, he was the carpenter’s son, right?

Listening to the Word like this set my heart on fire afresh. A hunger for more arose within me once again. My eyes widen in astonishment and adoration at who He was. Nazareth created in me a yearning and desire to press in unlike ever before, to consume of physical and spiritual bread wholeheartedly.

Middle Eastern Oregano, used in making Za’atar, a herb blend which is made up of hyssop, thyme, sesame seeds, and some spices like sumac, cumin, or coriander.

A VIEW AND BOAT RIDE ON THE SEA

The 10 minute walk up this mountain was worth it because the view was out. of. this. world! No wonder Jesus came this way from Nazareth because the backdrop was beautiful!! Overgrown in wildflowers of many colors with a breathtaking view of the whole area around, Mt. Arbel set the scene perfectly. While there isn’t exact evidence that this was the very spot Jesus spoke the Sermon of the Mount or the Beatitudes, I hoped it was because the setting was magnificent.

Either way, we know He took this route and He spent time here. Scripture tell us in Luke 6, “Jesus went out to a mountain side to pray, and spent the night praying to God. When morning came, he called his disciples to him.” This was most likely the place for those alone times with God where He needed to reconnect with His purpose, to learn where He needed to go next, to meditate and be refreshed. While our time was short here, it felt heavenly to bask in the sun and breathe in the freshness of His Presence, as He did.

After that, we put out into the deep and spent some time on the Sea. The wind blowing from every side, sun beating down on us, the water misting us in the face just slightly, it was like everything else around me stopped. We spent some time just quietly meditating and praying. I sat with my legs dangling down off the front of the boat and felt a familiar whisper from the Lord, “Peace be still.”

Thinking about how I felt the day before, I looked down at the permanently tattooed Hebrew word on my left arm, “Shalom.” I struggle with peace. It is not an easy place for me to get to nor stay in. In that moment, I felt reminded of the words Jesus spoke to me 2 months before my trip, when I felt such uncertainty about this trip, worried about what old wounds would be opened up, how exposed I would feel, and anxiety had crept in.

He whispered to me, “Daughter, just as I stilled the wind and sea by simply stepping into the vessel of the disciples full of fear, I will still your fears. Yes, you are in treacherous waters, I know that. But I also know that I live within you. Whatever atmosphere you step into, you will also still the chaos of the sea. You will be used mightily and this trip is in My will for you. Just listen to My voice. Peace be still. Take courage.”

I have the power to set the tone of the atmosphere around me. I do. As a wildly passionate person, I know I can be controlled by emotions if I’m not careful. I know I can hide behind my emotions too. Expressiveness has been a blessing and a curse for me – a gift to be zealously joyful, overtly loving and kind, or cursed to be glaringly irritated, restlessly uneasy. I did not realize until much later in life that because of my strong spirit, vocal tone, volume, and facial expressions, I had such a substantial capability to influence the resonance around me. This meant I had to carefully think about which spirit I walk out in – either choosing one of victory in Christ, of fear, of shame, or of victim hood.

It has been prophesied over me that my feet are to be fitted and guarded with the readiness that comes from the gospel of peace. That it would not take eloquent words but rather simply stepping into the war with the radiance of Christ, joyous laughter piercing the tension, and Jesus guiding my every step to still the weapons of the enemy. Breathing in the fresh air of the sea, I felt all of the fear and worry melt away, as if I had shaken the dust off my feet from the pain of the Golan. I felt rejuvenated in purpose, repentant in attitude, and restored in faith. I knew God had placed me on this trip for a reason. Even if that meant the reason was for me to simply change.

Attitude altered, I was ready to receive what would happen in the next few hours. This began with an unexpected dance lesson with our tour guide and captain on the boat, learning 2 dances to classic Jewish songs. It was incredible the freedom I felt once again in my spirit, letting go of all expectations and inhibitions, and freely dancing with that joyful zeal God has given me!

We ended our time on the sea with a FEAST of whole fish on a massive platter, freshly caught and fried up for us! Heart and stomach full, how could one not leave changed with a view like this?

ALONG THE SHORES OF GALILEE

Lake or Sea of Kinneret, Gennesaret, Tiberias or Galilee, is all one body of water found in the northern part of the Land. Approximately the size of WA D.C., this expanse is the main source of freshwater to the whole land. It was also the center of Jesus’ ministry.

We began this day with some time of worship and Bible reading on the shores, near where it is believed Jesus restores Peter into right relationship with Him once again. After such an emotional day before, it was refreshing to be reminded of this story. Peter’s beloved friend and teacher, Jesus, had died, the most gruesome of deaths. With a swarm of rumors of resurrection, the accounts go to on to share that Jesus had reveal Himself alive several times before this particular story takes place.

He was alive, so Peter should be rejoicing, right? But he was ashamed, for he has rejected know his Savior too many times, especially in his hour of greatest need. Peter went out to do what he knew he could do best, fish. It was probably the thing that took his mind off of reality and helped him process what he was feeling. He comes back to shore after a failed night of fishing with a few disciples and they see a man on the beach, a fire roaring next to him, ask if they had caught anything. Turning up empty handed, the man tells them to cast their nets back in, and suddenly a multitude of fish overflows, leading to an eye-opening shout from John exclaiming, “It is the Lord!” Peter in his typical enthusiasm, could not contain himself and swam to shore to meet with Him. He saw Jesus was roasting fish and made some bread.

Peter encounters his Lord like never before. “Simon, son of Jonah, do you love Me more than these?” He said to Him, “Yes, Lord; You know that I love You.” He said to him, “Feed my lambs.” This conversation gets repeated 3 times. This story struck differently than any time I’d read it before. You see, the words for love used by Jesus and Peter, are not the same. If you look closer, Jesus is asking for agape, unconditional love, while Peter admits he could only give him fileo, or brotherly love because he realized his human nature in denying Him. Jesus ends the interaction by asking for fileo love and Peter confesses he was trying.

Sitting on the shore, I tear up a bit thinking about my day before, when I felt so crushed by pain of the past, so ashamed of my attitude, like I had acted like a victim and realized, Jesus didn’t shame Peter for turning his back on him. Rather, He reminded him, it was okay to not love unconditionally all the time, to grasp my own humanness. God was not asking for perfection, he was asking for faith, perseverance, and humility. My heart softened, as the same grace was extended to it. I felt overcome a deep sense of peace as we moved onto our next stop.

Capernaum – hometown of Matthew, future home of Peter, a place that became central to Jesus’ ministry. Later, it was cursed and abandoned, as Korazim had been. In the time Jesus spent there, He healed a man with an unclean spirit, Peter’s mother-in-law’s fever, and the paralytic man who was lowered through a roof by his friends. He told the disciples the first shall be last on their way to Capernaum.

A beautiful example of this is the story of the centurion who was incredibly hungry for God, built a synagogue for the people in Capernaum. The faith of this centurion moved on the heart of Jesus, when he came to him and asked for the healing of his man’s servant. No faith was like his in all of Israel, Jesus proclaimed! While the synagogue we stood in was from the 4th century and not the 1st, it set the scene to picture what took place.

No faith was like this Gentile man’s in all the land. How convicting that would have been, proclaimed in a synagogue, a place of faith. Considering what had been said, I felt a need to examine my own heart and question, is my faith moving on the heart of God? Is my life testifying to what God has done? I had an opportunity to share my testimony on this trip and while that was an absolute privilege, I knew God was not done with me yet, particularly after marinating in what happened the day before.

Pondering all this in my heart, we moved onto our next stops of the day: Mt. Arbel and a boat ride on the Sea.

HAROD’S SPRING, BEIT SHE’AN, AND MAGDALA

“Alas, Sovereign Lord! I have seen the angel of the Lord face to face!” But the Lord said to him, “Peace! Do not be afraid. You are not going to die.” So Gideon built an altar to the Lord there and called it The Lord Is Peace.” -Judges 6:22-24

The Lord is Peace.

Things took a turn for the worst after Joshua. He did his best to conquered the land but less than 300 years later, the wickedness of Israel had become so outrageous in the sight of the Lord, that the people were forced into hiding. They abandoned the commands of God and his promises, taking refuge in mountain clefts and caves. Whenever they planted a crop, it would be ruined by the people of the land. Their enemies killed every living thing, including their livestock. The people were so oppressed, they turned to back to the God they recklessly disregarded and finally cried out for relief.

In this particular instance, the Lord responds with a directive given to a mighty warrior named Gideon, who considered himself to be the weakest in his clan and least in his father’s house, telling him to go out and fight for his people! Following after the command of his God, Gideon arouses controversy among his clan by cutting down the idols the Israelites had adopted from the pagan culture of their land.

God leads him to enlist men to war for the promise they had been given. There is a taste of a give and take between God and Gideon that I absolutely love where Gideon pushes the limits by asking for a sign multiple times to prove that he was following the commands of God with wisdom. We know that God asks Gideon to majorly trust Him by cutting down their military defense from 22,000 fearful warriors to a valiant 300. Gideon asking them to drink water from this spring, choosing the men by how they choose to quenched their thirst.

God could have easily defeated the entire militia of their enemies with a simple snap of His fingers but I think God likes showing off, proving He’s the hero. He loves the glory that is given to Him when He moves miraculously, not because He’s some sadistic, manipulative God who loves for us to go through painful things. Rather, He created a world that requires us to take risks, full of faith, because He want to show us that He has what it takes, that He’s trustworthy, and is out for our good, even when we cast Him aside.

The Holy Spirit made it crystal clear that walking by faith, even when the odds look grim, is vital, because He will not let me down. He loves me too much to simply let me face the giants in my life on my own.

We hopped back on the bus and drove about 10 minutes to our next stop at Beit She’an, where King Saul and his sons were hung on display for all to see by the Philistines. Yes, you read that correctly.

Views after a hike up

In Roman times, this city became the leading city of the Decapolis, the 10 cities Rome considered as their eastern front of the Empire. According to our tour guide, he believes this city was the best preserved Roman ruins ever. The beautiful theater near the entrance was used by the rich, such as the Herodians, as a place to gorge on food. After they ate their fill, they would find a corner and puck it all up just so they could eat more while watching performances. It made me a little sick to the stomach to hear about such excessive waste. Put a whole new understanding to gluttony.

A majority of the pillars fallen along the streets of the town. We learned a catastrophic earthquake had wrecked much of the structures in the year 749. After a short hike up a hill overlooking the ruins, we get a breathtaking view. To the north of Beit She’an we get our first glimpse of the Golan, the luscious greener part of Israel, with Syria in the distance. I had felt apprehensive about visiting Golan Heights, because of how heated discussions tend be around this particular part of the Land, which I’ll talk more about later but I felt overwhelming joy seeing it from this distance. I teared up a bit seeing and feeling so close to my homeland. Somewhere I hadn’t seen in 13 years. Home.

Syria seen in the far distance

We ended the day spending time in Magdala on the Sea of Galilee. We went to a small church right on the water, named Duc in Altum, or “Put out into the Deep.” Father Kelley, an Irish priest, spoke the Gospel unlike I had ever heard before! It was beautiful what tributes to the Bible every aspect of the building contained. Right outside was a synagogue from the time of Christ! Right beside it was a spot where fisherman would have stored fish for sale – ancient aquariums. It felt so out of this world being by the lake where so many of Jesus’ miracles took place and it left me with such anticipation for what was to comes next.

Ancient Fish Tank