JERUSALEM PT.2

How magnificently the old city rests, nestled into a modern world building itself around it.

This second day of tour was entirely spent in the Old Jerusalem. We started at the Western wall, making our descent into the tunnels that run below the Temple, on 1st Century Streets and re-emerging at the Pool of Bethesda pictured above. It was known to be an attraction to those in need of serious healing. Here Jesus healed a man who had lived his life of 38 years paralyzed. How defeated and hopeless he must have felt to have waited so long to be healed. He must have given up on entering into the waters of his restoration because he had no help. How often do I walk through life defeated!! All it took from Jesus was to say, “Get up and walk!” and his whole life was changed. I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to wait 38 years in stuck, waiting for someone, anyone to help me when I can ask Jesus for healing.

After this, we began our trek along the Via Dolorosa, the path He walked carrying that Cross that rescued me. On that street called mercy, that path of suffering, I could hear His voice ringing in my ears saying, “I carried that Cross and I felt your pain. I took up your crown and I wore your shame.” What better place to be reminded of how forgiven I am, than on the road to a painful death that lead to my salvation.

A tomb in ancient days housed generations of family, so when the Bible says “he went to be with his fathers,” it was quite literally true.

We stopped in this massive church with lines out the door waiting for people to see the place of Christ’s burial. Inside, there were several tombs and different holy objects. Our tour guide took us to a small room that by Syrian Christian tradition, was most likely the tomb belonged to Joseph of Arimathea, where Jesus was temporarily buried. It seemed so true, because it was so simple. While it is disputed where the tomb really was and we do end up visiting another site of potential later on, it was as if He was reminding us that His death was not as important as His resurrection.

“I left it behind, with all your sins.”

Rejuvenated in faith, we moved on. We stopped briefly in the Herodian Quarter, also known as the Beverly Hills of the Ancient City according to our tour guide. All the rich of the land had these houses with interact art carved into their walls and still intact furniture. We re-entered the Jewish Quarter and stopped for lunch before moving onto one of my favorite spots in the ancient city.

The City of David

Mentioned only a handful of times in the Bible, we entered into the ruins of the City of David. King David and the Israelites invaded Jerusalem, taking hold of it from the Jebusites. Generations later, his descendant King Hezekiah decided to protect the water source of the city from Assyrian invaders by using a tunnel system.

We made our way through the web of channels below and found ourselves at a crossroads. Either go around or wade knee to waist deep in a tunnel 1,750 ft. long. Pitch black, with just enough space for one person to go through, we walked in a train and sang praise to the Lord. At one point, we simply stopped and let our voices echo as we proclaim how GREAT our God was. I could’ve stayed in that moment forever. How magnificent a place to simply breathe in His presence, undisturbed by the noise of the city around us or by the thousands of tourists making the same journey as we were.

How exhilarating it was to praise Him in the cold, refreshing water, in a cave that had been hand craved out by from both sides, meeting in a point in time where everything stood still.

Exiting the tunnel, we entered into the Pool of Siloam, a now dry trench, where Jesus sent a blind man to wash for his healing so that the work of God might be displayed in him. While controversy arose around this man, he looked to Jesus with eyes wide open, in faith. If this day has taught me anything, it was to really believe in all that He has done and walk out in faith. What many might speculate about, was actually taught as history. Walking these streets proved that. Everywhere we turned, it was as if the Bible was jumping off the pages.

 We ended our tour day on a bit more of a sobering note.  

We spent the last hour and a half of our day walking through Yad Vashem, the World Holocaust Remembrance Center. Now I could’ve skipped this in my writing because it didn’t necessarily have to do with the Bible but it was too important not to address. I felt a massive amount of fundamental healing that needed to happen in this place.

Even as a Muslim, this broke my heart. In middle school, I had had my first Arab identity crisis over World War 2 and the Jews. My whole life I had been taught to believe one thing about them. But this changed everything. Wandering through this monument, I couldn’t help but sob. I had spent so much time trying to reconcile how to feel about a people who had been massacred and put to the slaughter and what I was told I had to accept.

Unlike ever before, I felt attached to these people, who had hopes and dreams, who loved and lost, who wanted so desperately to know they belonged, to be welcomed and understood, who were frankly at their core, human. As I witnessed the atrocities done in every room in that building, from shoes left behind in gas chambers, to the stories of children who simply wanted to go to school, to the names on that walls of people who wanted to simply live, my heart grieved.

It lamented for every soul lost, for every soul currently going through trauma across the globe, for every human heart so filled with anger, mine included. I felt so humbled, so overcome by the murder I had committed in my own heart, so confounded by the suffering, yet suddenly peace as I felt the Spirit remind me, to turn my eyes upon Jesus and to look full in His wonderful face. The things of this earth truly grow strangely dim, in the light of His glory and grace.

I had asked for healing in my heart of this trip and Jesus delivered in such a painful place. While I do not make light of the lives lost, nor do I take advantage of the pain and suffering, I am grateful that Jesus uses whatever method He sees fit to speak to us. This whole day was filled with wild emotion from start to finish and this was just day 2.

JERUSALEM PT. 1

Oh Jerusalem. Oh how beautiful you are.

I hope I’m not sounding repetitive by now, but honestly, never have I felt more at home than in this Land. It seemed like a dream to be walking its streets.

My heart resounded with the cry of heaven as I walked in Jesus’ steps. Looking across from above the Mount of Olives (which is a cemetery by the way) and the Garden of Gethsemane, to the Temple, I realized, no wonder He spent so much time here. He longed to see His Father’s Kingdom come and what better place to pray it down than with the whole city in sight.

The Garden of Gethsemane, which was tiny!!

Down in the midst of the graves, a group of devout Jewish men hoarded around and prayed their hearts out before a tomb of a prophet, suspected to be Nehemiah. I witnessed this happen at David’s tomb and at what remained of the Temple Wall. They seemed desperate to hear from Yahweh.

If only they knew He was standing right in front of them, within reach, but they missed Him. It hurt my heart to see women weeping for salvation yet He was in right there, holding them, waiting for them to acknowledge Him. The evidence of bouncing off the walls, reverberating in every tunnel, singing love in every room.

Ending our crazy first day, we walked the path Jesus used for His Triumphal Entry, when the people blindly welcomed Him, stuck with the image of a King who would reign over them here on earth. His agenda was quite different. It felt like you could hear His voice breathe on the wind saying, “Children, come home.”

The Dung Gate

Entering in through the Dung Gate, it felt surreal walking into the Temple. We prayed down the fullness of His Spirit that night in the Upper Room. We were privileged with 20 minutes of undisturbed worship time, as the sun set over His city, declaring that His glory would fill His house once again. I left with more assurance of His power than ever before. What a day!

Entering into the Upper Room

BETHLEHEM

Oh little town of Bethlehem, how high is your sky rise!

In the humorous words of a dear friend when I share this picture, I did not expect this little town to be so vivacious and expansive.

On a serious note, our first day of the official tour and suddenly we are already wandering into Palestinian territory. WHAT?!

The West Bank. The. West. Bank.

No matter how terrified I may have felt inside, I was beyond elated. It was all I could do just to contain my excitement to be around people who spoke my language, who I had so identified with as a child.

I had no idea what I was really in for. In a good way.

Walking through the town of Christ’s birth and David’s upbringing, I felt Jesus everywhere. Our first step in the door, was into the arms of warm hospitality, in a store run by Palestinian Arab Christians. Yes, I said that. Palestinian, Arab, Christians. I about burst into tears of joy with every conversation I entered into. I could see the love of Jesus radiating in their eyes. Every word that came from their mouth set my heart on fire. I shared my story with them and they rejoiced with me powerfully! I felt like I belonged. All of 30 minutes of time there and I didn’t want to leave.

I know there is heated debate about Israel and Palestine. I had encountered it time and again in my own conversations. It is easy to say pick a side and the more I step out in relationship with Jesus, the more I’ve realized, there’s no way I can or should. It’s not about sides. It is so in my heart as a believer now to help others extend love and compassion to both Israelis and Palestinians alike. Belief and resting firm in said belief is at the core of my character. So in spite of everything I’ve been taught, in spite of everything I hear, I realized I couldn’t look at this topic in black and white.

I wanted to share with you what I wrote down on that day last year: “It’s hard to explain why I cried so many times off and on but I think it’s because I never thought I’d be here today. God I’m so thankful for your goodness, for making a way for me to come and see your home. My heart is overwhelmed with love and compassion to the chaos of the conflict but filled with faith for the peace that you will bring. Even with the Muslims burning police stations in Jerusalem, I have faith for the grace you bring.”

The conversations with these people, solidified that more than ever before. This made Bethlehem one of my absolute favorite stops on this trip. Yes, being in the Land and seeing the Bible come to life is important, but to me, something deeper needed to happen and this was fuel to that fire. I felt an increase of expectancy, like there was more to come.

VALLEY OF ELAH

Where David fought Goliath. Where 2 armies came face to face with a little man, who was wildly passionate about God’s heart, firmly believing every giant would fall.

How many times have I stared giants straight in the face and yet immediately felt overwhelmed by how large they can be?

This particular day did not go as planned. Come to think of it, by the end of this trip I realized, nearly none of them did. It seemed intimidating to me how much lack of control I felt.

Still…it was freeing. I was free to listen, postured to listen carefully.

This was a small stop along our path. Yet it was a spot where a small mustard seed of faith needed to be planted to prepare me for what was ahead on this trip.

Quite literally. A small mustard seed of faith in the Valley of Elah. They bloomed wildly across this valley.

Mere moments before our arrival, we found out that Jerusalem, which was less than 30 miles away, where we were supposed to be headed next, was dealing with a bit of a rioting situation. Not to get too political, but the Arabs were up to no good, bombing Jewish police stations to make a way for their own agenda.

“Now the Israelites had been saying, “Do you see how this man keeps coming out? He comes out to defy Israel. ” – 1 Samuel 17:25 The words of the Bible never rang more true.

We were told that our day was being rerouted and some items on the agenda would be switched around. This stirred something in me. I could look at this situation, allow fear to overtake me, as the Israelites may have, be embarrassed by the way my people were representing themselves and be angry with them or I could simply set out in faith and pray for the softening of their hearts.

I could’ve allowed the enemy to speak lies into my mind, saying “Why are you even here?” or “You are too young to speak and effectively change anything.” Or I could stop and let the Lord speak in the Valley of Elah, the Valley of God.

I had asked the Lord for healing. That meant facing this threat head on instead of cowering back in fear. It meant looking at the circumstances and not letting it be a cause for anxiety.

Stop. Fix yours eyes on Me. Remember what I have done here, the absolute miracle that happened.

Verses 45-46 say, “David said to the Philistine, “You come against me with sword and spear and javelin, but I come against you in the name of the Lord Almighty, the God of the armies of Israel, whom you have defied. This day the Lord will deliver you into my hands.”

I look at the valley in front of me and the Lord said, “A man, small in stature, easily could’ve been missed, simply obeyed in faith and took down a giant, in a small stone. While I’m not asking you to physically stop the attack in Jerusalem, woman, of small stature, simply obey and trust me.”

Nothing magical happened that day. The war between the brothers didn’t end. No one around me probably even noticed that this was all happening inside of me. But that didn’t matter. God shifted something my heart and transformed my thinking processes. I didn’t look at anything ahead of me and be entangled by thoughts of anxiousness. I didn’t allow my past ways of thinking about my people, create a divide. I didn’t succumb to a need to be defensive. I simply trusted that God was winning the battle and that I was meant to be enjoying His Land.

Verse 50: “So David triumphed over the Philistine with a sling and a stone; without a sword in his hand he struck down the Philistine and killed him.”

There was no need for a sword in this fight.

The king of Israel inquired and searched to find the one who accomplished the victory. He soon finds out, it’s a young man from Bethlehem, the next stop in my journey.

JOPPA

“Truly I tell you, God shows no partiality but in every nation anyone who fears Him and does what is right is acceptable to him.” – Acts 10:34-35

Every. Nation.

Walking that 6 mile stretch from our hotel in Tel Aviv to the ancient city of Joppa, modern day Jaffa, on this day last year, listening to the words of old echoing as the waves crashed into the shore, seemed like something out of a dream.

As a kid, I remember the name Jaffa being thrown around. I remember seeing the name show up across the screen of our television when we turned on the news. I remember thinking to myself, “Someday, I will go there and see what it’s all about.”

I never thought in my wildest dreams I would ever get to actually be there. How could I ever have imagined truly roaming the land of my ancestors, let alone as a welcome believer of the Lord?

To be completely vulnerable, I felt a small twinge of unease entering into the country. The history of pain between the brethren (Arab and Jew) was a history of pain for me too. I have to admit, loving my Jewish neighbor didn’t come naturally for me. It was ingrained in me from childhood that they are the enemy, that they had hurt my people. Seeing images of blood covered streets and children without families, tore me apart. Inside, I wondered, how I would be received, as a woman whose own home had been dismantled, from a nation of refugees, who are simply trying to find a family once again.

Yet the echo of truth rung in my ears, “God shows no partiality.” It brings me to tears remembering the feeling of belonging wandering through the streets of Jaffa. Everything was familiar. The smells of nostalgic foods, the voices booming in a tongue I understood, the busyness of the market place, the vision of Arabs and Jews living side by side together as one people. I admit, I was struck to the core.

I was gently reminded by the Spirit, that I too, a cast out Gentile, was welcomed in because of what happened in a vision here 2,000 years ago. For Joppa is where the Lord told Peter that He will no longer only accept Jews, but now, every nation who fears Him and does what is right, can enter into His covenant. In spite of my prideful fears, I was reminded, that there is no longer fear in love, for perfect love casts out all fear.

On top of all this, to think God in all of His goodness, allowed so major players of HISTORY to have crossed paths here in Joppa, floored me. Egyptians from the time of Rameses had a fingerprint here. Solomon built the temple with wood that was floated down the coast of the Mediterranean from Tyre, another foreign relation, a group of Gentiles. It was carried through the Jerusalem gate in Joppa all the way through the Jaffa Gate in Jerusalem to build God’s house. Peter received his vision and shook the Christian world permanently. Napoleon even had a stronghold here.

Suddenly, we were all human, children of Adam and we are welcomed in. Welcomed home. Salvation is here.

The Streets of Jaffa
Where Peter received the vision from the Lord in Acts 10
Ruins of the old city, evidence of the Egyptians

HOLY. GROUND.

Where all things find their rest, in spite of the reality of the struggle. Where walls speak, sounds declare, smells entice, colors allure, and stories radiate in ripples throughout time, all colliding into this moment.

Call it what you may. Welcome to the Holy Land.

A year ago at this time, I was in flight about to go on the adventure of a lifetime. Here and now, begins the tale of Christ and the evidence of His touch in a land with such rich history, seen through the eyes of an Arab former Muslim, now Jesus following believer.

With eager anticipation, nothing could’ve prepared me for what God would do in my world. I was desperately in need of revival. I was daringly asking for healing, especially from past hurts concerning my homeland, the Middle East. I entered in asking for humility, for new eyes to see, for breakthrough and He delivered more than I could’ve anticipated.

I was boldly requesting rebirth and new life, as a phoenix arises from the ashes, death to old ways to thinking and wrong ways to action.

You might look at this and think that this was a lot to ask for, but what better place to encounter Jesus with FAITH than along the streets of His homeland, the shores of His preaching, the alleyways of His healing, the place of His crucifixion, and the fullness of His resurrection.

So come along on this journey. Enter into the place where you will see His word come to life unlike before. It is truly HOLY GROUND.